In autumn, the well-known “Summer Sardinia” slowly disappears: empty beaches and deserted streets seems to be everywhere while the historic towns are populated by stray cats that wander undisturbed through the alleys. In the wettest season of the year, children take back their own space playing in the historic centers while the elderly women bring out their velvet garments. In the solitude of a Sardinian autumn deprived even of the sun, a villager stops me: "what are you doing here? It's autumn!".